Youtube Link: https://youtu.be/zdNNhU0o5FU
References: https://karnatakatravel.blogspot.com/2017/07/swayambhu-devalayam-warangal-fort.html
https://indianculture.gov.in/node/2761046
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kakatiya_Kala_Thoranam
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warangal_Fort
Location:
Warangal
Fort (the main walled inner fort): “Warangal Fort, Mathwada, Warangal,
Telangana 506001”
Swayambhudeva
Alayam:
“Sivalayam, Warangal Fort, Ekashila Park, Near, Kila Warangal, Mathwada,
Warangal, Telangana 506002”
Kakatiya Thoranam: “Kakatiya Toranam,
XJ48+R52, Mathwada, Warangal, Telangana 506002”
Ekashila Gutta: “Ekashila Gutta,
Warangal Fort, Near, Fort, Ekashila, Kila Warangal, Mathwada, Warangal,
Telangana 506002”
Shivalayam
(Mandalamm temple):
“Shiva alayam (Mandalamm temple), XJ55+2PX, Kothawada, Warangal, Telangana
506002”
Kush Mahal: “Kush Mahal,
XJ47+F6W, Warangal Fort, Kila Warangal, Mathwada, Warangal, Telangana 506002”
Stepped well: “Stepped Well at
Shiva nagar, Warangal, 16-4-438, Under Bridge Rd, Shiva Nagar, Warangal,
Telangana 506002”
For
script:
Within
an area of around 10 sqKM, there are the following places which can be visited:
1)
Warangal
Fort
2)
Kakatiya
thoranam
3)
Swayambhudeva
Alayam
4)
Ekashila
Gutta
5)
Shivalayam
(Mandlamm temple)
6)
Kush
Mahal
7)
Stepped
well
Warangal is the city of wonders, also known as the
cultural capital of Telengana, the city of ancient Kakatiya dynasty,
respresenting and show casing its rich heritage of over 1000 years. On one hand
the beautiful city represents a modern dyanamic urban infrastructure just 150
KMs from the capital city of Hyderabad, while on the other hand, the ancient
ruins scattered across the entire city starting from the 1000 pillar temple, to
the Warangal fort and Kakatiya thoranam, presents in front of us a rich legacy
of its ancient rich and vibrant culture, showcasing one of India’s by gone era
of pride and illustrious past. The city’s name is derived from the Telugu word
Orugallu – ‘Oru’ which means one and the word ‘gallu’ which means stone as is
it located close to Ekashila Gutta (One stone hill). Warangal was initially
ruled by the Rashtrakutas during 8th century, then Western Chalukyas
during 10th century, but finally came under the sovereign control of
Kakatiya Dynasty during the 12th century.
Legends
about the city
Few accounts suggest that a cart carrying goods for
the construction of Hanamakonda (earlier capital of Kakatiyas) stuck a rock and
turned upside down. The axis made of iron came in contact with the rock and
turned into gold. The then Kakatiya ruler Prola II, visited the site and found
a linga around the rock after which he built a temple enclosing the linga
subsequently came to be known as swayambhu. Rudradeva built the town Orugallu
(former name of Warangal) making it an important centre till the greatest king
Ganapati Deva (nephew of Rudradeva) shifted the capital from Hanamakonda to
Warangal sometime between 1252 and 1254 CE. His successors Rudrama Devi and
Pratapa Rudra Deva continued to rule from the city.
The
construction of the fort
The formidable Warangal Fort, erected in the 12th
century, serves as a testament to the dynasty's strength and architectural
prowess. Crafted from granite stones, the fort showcases intricate designs and
majestic entrances, offering insight into the Kakatiya rulers' glorious era. Although
precise dating of its construction and subsequent enhancements is uncertain,
historians and archaeologists generally agree that an earlier brick-walled structure
was replaced with stone by Ganapatideva (1199
AD-1262 AD), and was completed by his daughter Rudrama Devi,
who ruled until 1289, and further strengthened by her grandson Prataparudra
II, whose reign came to be known as a "Golden Age".
Queen Rudrama Devi was born to King Ganapati Deva.
According to Marco Polo who wrote extensively about Warangal, mentioned with no
son, Rudrama Deva was made the successor. With the nobility opposing, Ganapati
Deva was forced to perform a ritual “the putrika ceremony”, in order to declare
her as son of Ganapati Deva. The neighbouring kingdoms like Yadavas of
Devagiri, Gangas of Kalinga, Pandyas of Tamil Nadu and other hostile neighbours
consider her as a weak ruler but after great victories, she assumed the title
of Raya-gaja-kesari (the lion who rules over the elephant kings) and
constructed a commemorative pavilion in Warangal’s swayambhu temple, depicting
herself as a woman warrior mounted on a lion with sword and shield in hand. She
was the one who made sure the construction of the fort which had been initiated
by her father along with many other new ventures.
Architecture
The construction of the Warangal fort began in the 13th
century under the reign of Ganapati Deva by replacing an existing structure
made of bricks to build the stone fort of Warangal on a hillock called
Ekashila. Considerable contributions and additions were done by Rani Rudrama
Devi and her grandson Pratap Rudra Deva. Although in ruins, the original
sculptures, iconographies in the entire Fort area including the Thoranam, the
Swambhu temple, and the stone works done provide a glimpse of the mesmerizing
craftsmanship and stunning artistry of the Kakatiyas.
The fortification part of the city of Warangal was
done by Ganapati Deva, while king Prataparudra is credited with adorning the
city with palaces, gardens and fountains.
The fortification was done in 3 parts:
1) An
innermost wall made of granite stone blocks and is 1.2 km in diameter with
gateways at four cardinal points, all laid in a close-knit pattern without the use
of a mortar. This fortification was later heightened by Rani Rudrama Devi, and
is surrounded by a large moat. It was defended by 45 massive bastions,
projecting outside of the walls and into the waters of the moat.
2) The
second wall an earthen structure, 2.4 KM in diameter was also constructed by
Queen Rudrama Devi
3) The
final ring of the wall encompasses today’s Warangal District, was constructed
made of mud and has a diameter of 12.5 KM
The four gates of the Warangal fort were built in the
design of Kakatiya Kala Thoranam or “Gate of Glory”, classic arch carved out of
a single rock, all the 4 gates once part of the great Swayambhuva (Shiva)
temple constructed in 12th century. The ornate arch was adopted as
the royal symbol of the Kakatiyas.
Around 1318, the kingdom was conquered by the Delhi Sultanate. Adjacent
to the fort, the Thousand Pillar Temple, honouring Lord Shiva, stands as a
masterpiece of Kakatiya craftsmanship, adorned with finely sculpted columns and
intricate stone works. While the cultural legacy of Warangal is showcased by
the vibrant festivals like Bathukama festival observed during Navaratris, where
in women adorned with vibrant floral arrangements, singing traditional hymns in
praise of goddess Gauri, classical dance forms like Kuchipudi and Perini,
Warangal also provides the spiritual journey through the presence of temples
like Bhadrakali temple, Ramappa temple, thousand pillar temple which enthrals
visitors with their elaborate carvings, majestic architecture and intricate
sculptures depicting Hindu tales.
Pilgrims also frequent the Padmakshi Temple and Siddeshwara Temple, revered for
their religious significance and architectural splendour. Additionally, the
local cuisine, featuring tantalising dishes such as Hyderabadi biryani and
spicy Telangana curries, offers a sensory journey for food enthusiasts.
As we travel through various places in Warangal, we
start with the Warangal fort. Also known as the gateway to Warangal, the
Warangal fort represents the capital city of the Kakatiya dynasty and Musunuri
Nayakas who ruled around this area. The fort appears to have
existed since at least the 12th century when it was the capital of the Kakatiyas.
The fort has four ornamental gates, known as Kakatiya Kala Thoranam, and also Orugallu
fort that originally formed the entrances to a now ruined great Shiva temple.
The Kakatiyan arch has been adopted and officially
incorporated into the emblem of Telangana after the
bifurcation of Andhra Pradesh. The
fort is included in the "tentative list"
of UNESCO World Heritage Site and was submitted
by the Permanent Delegation of India to UNESCO.
Ganapatideva, Rudrama Devi, and
Prataparudra II II all added to the fort's height, building gateways,
square bastions, and
additional circular earthen walls. This places the construction towards the end
of the Kakatiya period.
In 1309, Malik
Kafur, the general of Alauddin
Khalji, attacked the fort with
a large force of 100,000 men and surrounded it. Prataparudra II II
and his people secured themselves within the formidable stone-walled fort and
battled bravely for several months with the invading army. As the siege was
unable to be lifted for more than six months, Prataparudra II II agreed to
a truce with Kafur, as the latter had unleashed massive destruction on the
neighboring towns and villages. This truce included the notable Koh-i-Noor diamond
along with various precious treasures, which he took it back to Delhi.
The chronicles of Amir Khusrao, described
how the fortifications consisted of a strong outer hardened mud structure with
a deep ditch in front that had to be filled with dirt before the army could
surmount it. The inner fortress was built of stone and surrounded by a moat
that the Muslim soldiers swam across. The fort as described by Khusrow
corresponds to the two inner circles of fortifications that exist today, and is
visible from above.
Successive attacks on the fort
happened under Qutubuddin Mubarak Shah (son of Alauddin Khalji) in 1318 and
then under Tugluqs by Ulugh Khan (son of Ghiyath-ul-Tuglaq) and then by
Muhammad bin Tuglaq in 1320 when they held siege of the fort. Ulugh Khan came
back again during 1323 with 63000 soldiers and a huge infantry of mounted
soldiers on camels and archers but even then couldn’t breach the fort walls
under Pratapa Rudra II with only few thousand soldiers, until the king had to
surrender hearing about the massacre of the people in the country side. Once
the gates where opened, the Muslim forces plundered and destroyed the city,
completely destroyed the swayambhulinga chaturmukha shivalinga temple and and
nothing was left in the city, which is visible even today.
All that is now visible of the
temple are remnants scattered around the centre of the fort, reminding visitors
of its once charming presence, and the splendid architectural beauty combined
with excellent stonework and sculptural value of the period that leaves
everyone in awe. Then, the Tughluqan authorities built an enormous mosque to
one side of the fort, which was demolished by the local Nayaka chieftains in
1335. Prataparudra II, who had surrendered and was sent to Delhi, perished
en route on the banks of the Narmada
River. It is said that he committed suicide in
1323. The city of Warangal was then renamed as Sultanpur, and from 1324 to
1332 imperial coins were minted there. The Delhi Sultanate managed to hold
Sultanpur until 1335, when the local Nayakas (72
of the chieftains) formed a union and took control. The fort then
came under the control of the Bahmani
Sultanate, Qutb Shahi dynasty of Golconda and later under the rule of the Nizam of Hyderabad.
Kakatiya
Kala Thoranam and the Great Shiva Temple
Kakatiya Kala Thoranam (also called Warangal Gate)
also known as the Swayambhuva Temple complex, is a historical arch in the
Warangal district, of the Indian state of Telangana. The Warangal Fort has four
ornamental gates which originally formed the gates to the destroyed great Shiva
temple which are known as Kakatiya Kala Thoranam or Warangal Gates. The
architectural feature of these historical arches of the Warangal Fort has been
adopted as the symbol of the Kakatiya Dynasty and has been officially
incorporated as the Emblem of Telangana for the state of Telangana. These gates
or arches in the Warangal Fort are said to have similarities with gateways of
the Sanchi stupa; this fact has been endorsed by many.
The arch was built around 12th century during the rule
of the Kakatiya dynasty. The fort and the Thoranama are included in the "tentative list"
of UNESCO World Heritage Site and was submitted
by the Permanent Delegation of India to UNESCO.
The Kakatiya Kala Thoranam, or arch, is an extensive
ornamented stone sculpture; reflective of four identical gates in the Warangal
Fort, which was part of the great Swayambhusiva temple of Shiva in
the fort built by Ganapati-deva (1199-1262) during
the 12th century. His daughter Rudrama Devi and Pratap Rudra
II of the Kakatiya Dynasty added more fortifications to the
fort which was laid in three concentric circles. The four gateways (char
kaman) were part of the temple which was destroyed by the Muslim invader Jauna Khan during the 1323 invasion, as a part of their
policy followed after their victories over territories, to desecrate Hindu temples. The
great temple of which the gates were integral is said to be comparable to the
size and splendor of the Rudra Mahalaya Temple at Siddhpur in Gujarat.
A depiction of the arch forms the main symbol in
the Emblem of Telangana for the state of
Telangana. This logo or emblem, in English, Telugu and Urdu is
portrayed with a combination of green and gold, representing "Bangaru
Telangana" (meaning: "Golden Telangana"). Also inscribed on the
logo are the names of the Government of Telangana in English,
and as "Telangana Prabhutvam" in Telugu and as "Telangana
Sarkar" in Urdu. At the base of the logo there is an inscription in
Sanskrit which says "Satyameva
Jayate".
The central part of the fort, identified as the
archaeological zone, contains the ruins of the great Swayambhusiva temple, now
seen with only the free-standing "Entrance Portals", or gates on the
four sides, all being similar in design. Each gate has twin pillars with angled brackets over which lies the
huge lintel;
the height of this gate being 10 metres (33 ft). The gates have extensive
intricate carvings of "lotus buds, looped garlands, mythical animals, and
birds with foliated tails". They do not depict any religious symbols, said
to be the reason for its preserved condition for not being destroyed by Muslim
invaders. The gates at the northern and southern ends are 480 feet (150 m)
apart. The eastern and western gates are at a distance of 433 feet (132 m)
apart.
Amongst the sculptures lying in the ruins of the
complex, are the pillar brackets on which there are representations of the
gaja-kesari motifs, depicting a lady with the head of a warrior and holding a
dagger and shield and seated on a lion, which in turn is seen standing on an
elephant and the warrior believed to be queen Rudramadevi ( in the form of Raya-gaja-kesari
i.e. the lion who rules over the elephant kings).
Swayambhudeva
Alayam temple
While the great Shiva temple doesn’t exist anymore, a
small temple or Shivalayam (Mandalamm temple) also known as Swayambhudeva
Alayam temple is there at the southern side of the Thoranam and constains the
idol of chaturmukha shiva. It is known
for its intricately carved sculptures and motifs that are kept in the temple. This
temple is situated right within Warangal fort, next to Ekasila Gutta and a stone's throw from the Southern
Torana. The temple situated below the road below the road level. Swayambhu
Shambu Lingeshwara Swamy Devalaya is one of the ancient Shiva temples. The
temple deity is said to be self created. This temple was important for Kakatiya
dynasty and it is said that Kakatiya King Prataparudra visited this temple
everyday. In plan, the temple seems to be star-shaped. It has a Mukha Mantapa
(a porch) which leads into the temple assembly hall- Sabha Mantapa. The temple
builders have made Sukhnasi (a seating platform) right from the porch and
around the assembly hall. The Shikhara (tower) over the Garbhagudi (Sanctum) is
a recent construction. The original would have been a stone tower or made of
brick and mortar. Apart from the tower, the temple has undergone alterations to
suit the present times. On the temple's right side is this unusual Linga with
four faces.. a Chaturmukha Linga. Within the temple premises, is another
ancient structure which looks like the priest's residence. In the foreground is
another beautiful Basavanna. The idol is damaged hence its placed at a side.
Close by an interesting structure.. a two-storey
Mantapa. It looks like a restored item.. saying that because the columns in the
ground floor are not same.
Kush
Mahal
Around 200 meters from the fort is the Khush Mahal,
also known as Shitab Khan Mahal which has been named after Sitapati, a Hindu
chief who was the governor under Bahamani rule and is said to have been built
during the Tughlaq reign.
Shivalayam
Mandalamm Temple:
On the back side of the swayambhudeva temple around
1KM, there is this beautiful structure, which is also a shivalayam but is
closed for entry. There is no parking here, but on the side of the road the
vehicle can be parked and few minutes spent in watching from outside the
barricade.
Kakatiya
Stepped well
Around 3 KMs from the thoranam is the ancient kakatiya
stepped well, a historic multi-storeyed stepwell, also known as Metla Bavi, Antasthulu Bavi in local parlance, at Shiva Nagar Warangal. The
stepwell, one of the architectural marvels of the Kakatiya dynasty (AD 1083 and
1323)
According to the locals, the depth of the well is unknown and it never dried
up. The locals also say that the square-shaped stepwell has a secret tunnel
through which the queen’s entourage used to access it from Fort Warangal, which
is barely a couple of kilometers away.
Ekashila Gutta
Ekashila Gutta (One stone hill) is located
in Warangal, Telangana, next to Warangal fort.
Ekashila Temple built by Kakatiyas around
12th century CE is located on top of the hill. Warangal got its name from
this hill as ‘Eka (One) shila (stone) Nagaram’ or ‘Oru Gallu (one stone)’ to
become Warangal over a period of time.
Ekshila garden and children’s park provides
entertainment for all age groups. It’s a scenic spot with a lake beside the
Hill.
The sunset view from the top is
mesmerising; The images do partial justice to the overall aura of this
wonderful place. The beautiful shivalayam temple at the top and the scenic view
makes the final journey of Warangal fort area just it should be to finish off.
I do not exactly remember whether camera
was allowed or it was on paid basis, but I couldn’t find any pics of the place.