Anandomoyee Temple, Somra
Sukhariya
Youtube Link: https://youtu.be/Zhq8ss4BK3Q
Location: “4CMV+655 Ma Anandamoyee
Temple, Sukuria, West Bengal 712123”
References:
https://www.livehistoryindia.com/story/people/bengals-mitra-mustafi-family-trilogy
(Mitra Mustafi family)
History of Mita Mustafi Family
‘Mitra Mustafi’ family ‘s architectural
legacy can be seen in their mansions, temples and religious structures in
Ula-Birnagar (now in Nadia district of West Bengal), Sripur-Balagarh (now in
Hooghly district) and Sukharia-Somra (also in Hooghly district). In the
late 17th century, Shaista Khan, the then Mughal Governor of Bengal (1664-
1688), appointed a man named Rameshwar Mitra in the Accounts section of the
Bengal Governorate. A descendant of the Kayasths who had migrated from Kannauj
to Bengal, Rameshwar Mitra excelled at his work and over the years built a
formidable reputation. In time, he became so pivotal in the
administration that, in 1700 CE, when Murshid Quli Khan became Governor of
Bengal, he sent Rameshwar Mitra on a special deputation to the imperial capital
of Delhi, to work in the Accounts Department of the Mughal court. Impressed by
his work, Emperor Aurangzeb conferred on him the title of ‘Mustauphi/Mustafi’
in 1704 CE. The Emperor also presented him a golden palm (royal seal). Rameshwar
Mitra grew to become a wealthy and influential personality and built many
architecturally beautiful structures in his native village before he died in
1630 Shakabda (c. 1708). He had ten sons and a daughter, who would fan out
across three villages and build magnificent mansions and temples, many of which
are still standing. Rameshwar Mitra’s father, Mohan Mitra, settled near
the banks of the Bhagirathi River in a village called Ula-Birnagar (now in
Nadia district of West Bengal) in 1657. His son Rameshwar built a huge mansion
named ‘Mitra Mustafi House’ in the village, in addition to many other
architectural gems including several mansions, temples and other religious
structures. All that remains of Mitra Mustafi House is an arched gateway
whose crumbling bricks jut out of its walls. The old mansion has long since
crumbled and the gateway is all that’s left of those glorious days. The gateway
leads to a chandi mandap built by the family, where Durga Puja is
performed every year. The wooden chandi mandap was once covered by a
thatched roof that has been replaced by corrugated tin sheets.
In the early 18th century,
Rameshwar Mitra’s eldest son, Raghunandan Mitra, migrated to Sripur-Balagarm
(now in Hooghly district) to take advantage of the river trade to make his own
fortune. Not only did he amass great wealth, he also built a fort complex in
Sripur. Raghunandan Mitra built large mansions, Shiva temples and a Rash
Mancha (a hall for Krishna worship during festivals) in Sripur even though he
was a follower of Shaktism. From then on, Sripur saw a cultural assimilation of
Shaivism, Shaktism and Vaishnavism. Raghunandan Mitra died in 1661 Shakabda (c.
1739).
Rameshwar Mitra’s fourth son,
Anantaram Mitra, arrived in Sukharia-Somra (now in Hooghly district) in 1712
CE. His fourth son, Tilakram Mitra Mustafi, bought land in Sukharia, Punui and
Gopinagar from the Burdwan Raj Estate in 1757. I n 1813, Anantaram’s
nephew, Bireshwar Mitra Mustafi (son of Shambhuram Mitra Mustafi), erected a
three-storey Ananda Bhairavi Temple crowned by 25 pinnacles.
Anandamoyee Temple, Sukhariya
The quaint Sukharia village is on
the busy Somra Bazar railway line in Hooghly district. Located
on the west bank of the Hooghly River, 70 km north of Kolkata, Sukharia
(Sukuria) and its neighboring districts were once home to some of Bengal’s
elite Zamindar families, including the Sens and Mitra Mustafis. While
most of their grand mansions have fallen into ruins, remnants such as
Corinthian pillars, hanging balconies, and Durga Manchas still reflect their
past grandeur. The temples built alongside these mansions have survived in far
better condition.
The Ananda-Bhairavi Temple is a
rare example of the panchavimshati-ratna (twenty-five pinnacled) type of temple
architecture. The temple is located by the side of the Anandamoyee
Pond. The temple was constructed in 1813 by Bireswar Mitra Mustafi who was the
nephew of Anataraman Mitra Mustafi (son of Shambhuram Mitra Mustafi).
The temple houses Maa Anandamoyee on a wooden singhasana in the sanctum. Featuring
rich terracotta facades, the temple’s 5 pinnacles were destroyed during an
earthquake in 1897 and were later reconstructed. Anandamoyee Temple houses the
main temple of Anandamoyee Maa, which is surrounded by 12 smaller temples.
Although the present structure was completed in 1813 and most of the structure
is in ruins, a few terracotta panels are still in good condition. The palace of
the Mitra Mustafi family, known as Radha Kunja, still stands.
The first story of the temple has
12 pinnacles (3 on each side), second has 8 on (3 each side), and a 3rd story
having 4 on each side. The central single pinnacle stands at the top. The
structure is adorned with terracotta figures of deities, birds, floral motifs,
boating scenes, European soldiers, and features a triple-arched entrance
decorated with terracotta work.
The temple complex also includes
twelve additional temples, with ten standard aatchala (eight-roofed) temples
and two pancha-ratna temples. One of the pancha-ratna temples is
dedicated to Lord Ganesh, while all the other flanking temples house Lord
Shiva. All these temples are situated on a raised platform, although many are
now leaning due to inadequate foundations. The Mitra Mustafi family
mansion, known as Radha Kunja, still exists in a dilapidated state. Built by
Ramjiban, the great-grandson of Sambhuram Mitra Mustafi, this mansion once
showcased immense wealth and splendor. The Bengali film “Akaler Sandhane,”
directed by Mrinal Sen and featuring actors like Dhritiman Chatterjee, was
filmed here. Despite its current condition, the mansion’s vast dimensions
remain awe-inspiring.
Harasundari Temple
(did not know and couldn’t visit)
A short walk from
Ananda-Bhairavi Temple leads to another temple complex by a lake, featuring the
Navaratna-styled Harasundari Kali Temple and fourteen additional flanking
temples. Constructed in 1813 by Dewan Ramnidhi Mustafi,
the complex includes twelve aatchala styled Shiva temples and two pancharatna
styled temples.
One can also visit the double story place of
the Mitra Mustafis although they are partly overtaken by vegetation. The palace
was closed when we visited.
How to reach:
By Train: The most convenient
way to reach Sukharia is to take the Howrah-Katwal local train in the morning
and get down at the Somra Bazaar station. There are rickshaws from the
station, and by foot it would take around 15 minutes to reach the place.
By Road: The Sukharia
Bus Stop (also known as Somra Bus Stop) is located on Station Road in Somra, Badadanga, Balagarh, Hooghly District, West Bengal. No direct buses are available from Kolkata however.
Train is still the best way to travel.
By Air: Kolkata airport is
around 70 KMs
Photography and Parking:
There is no restriction on photography. Drones can be used too.
No dedicated parking. Vehicles should be parked near the temple and it’s
not an issue.
Timings:
The temple opens daily early in the morning (around 6:00 AM) and close
by late afternoon (around 5:00 PM - 6:00 PM), often closing for a few hours in
the afternoon.
Famous
Festivals:
The most famous
festivals celebrated at the historic Somra-Sukharia temple complex,
particularly at the Ananda Bhairavi Temple, are Durga Puja and Kali Puja. These festivals are deeply rooted in tradition, with the
descendants of the Mitra Mustafi family returning to the village to celebrate
at this 300-year-old site.