Youtube Link: https://youtu.be/UjpO_0WIm9A
Temple Complexes in Pathra, Pathra, West
Bengal
References:
https://rangandatta.wordpress.com/2020/07/08/pathra-rebirth-of-the-temple-town/
https://www.kolkataonwheels.com/drive-destination-details/98
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pathra,_Paschim_Medinipur
Pathra is a village and a gram
panchayat in the Midnapore Sadar CD block in the Medinipur Sadar subdivision of
the Paschim Medinipur district in
the state of West Bengal. Pathra is a village of temples with hundreds of
small temples. Unfortunately, many of the temples are in bad shape because of
lack of preservation, damage by the Kangsabati and vandalizing by the locals.
There are 34 temples with "enriched terracotta artwork". Those
deserving a special mention are the naba-ratna temple, kachari
mahal, rasmancha, dalan of Kalachand,
Durgeswar temple and Pancha Shiva temple.
Most of the temples were built by the Ghosal (later changed
to Majumdar) and Banerjee families. Under the Nawabs of
Bengal, these families were appointed to hereditary feudatory
positions and Bidyananda Ghoshal, who established the Ghoshal-Majumdar line in
Pathra, was originally a revenue collector of the Ratnachawk Pargana under
Nawab Alivardi Khan.
Baidyananda Ghosal built
several temples, which did not please his employer. Alivardi
sentenced him to death and Baidyananda Ghosal was thrown in front of a elephant
to be trampled to death. But the elephant refused to crush Bidyananda Ghosal to
death and the nawab considering this as a miracle let him free and he continued
building more and more temples. The place came to be known as Pathra (Pa =
(elephant) feet, uthra = escape). (Bandel Church has a similar story). The Ghosal adopted
the title of Majumdar and continued with the temple building spree. The
Bandopadhyay family of Pathra also joined the temple building spree, which
continued till the end of the 18th century.
Revival of the structures
Initially, with no initiative from the Government
or Archeological Survey of India (ASI), it was Yeasin Pathan, who waged a
lonesome battle for the preservation. As a young boy, Pathan used to visit this
village with his father, who dealt in cattle. He was able to appreciate
the architectural importance and beauty of the temples. In mid 1960s, scholars
like Tarapada Satra explored the place along with Pathan, who was then in his
youth. It was also the starting point of his endeavour to save these temples. Pathan’s
hard work and persuasion bore fruits when grants were allocated by the
Government. Even IIT Kharagpur decided to render technical assistance following
his persistent efforts.
According to Pathan, most of the pakka (concrete)
houses in the villages were constructed from the bricks stolen from these
temples. The situation became so bad that in late 1970s, most temples were
reduced to a pile of stones or sank in the riverbed. He wrote innumerable
letters to authorities, including local politicians, IIT Kharagpur and the
President of India.
Pathan has received the Kabir Award for preaching
communal harmony from the President of India, CID Gallantry Award, 24 Ghanta
Ananya Sanman and many more. Pathan decided to organise a Durga Puja for
the cause of the temples, things took a turn for the better. “This brought
media attention and I began to get support for my work,” he said. Today, 28 out
of 34 temples of Pathra are under the supervision of ASI. They have
already repaired 18 temples. All these temples have been categorised as
‘monument of national interest’.
The temples of Pathra can
be classified into three complex, namely:
1)
Nabratna temples complex
2)
Kalachand temple complex
3)
Rasmancha temple complex.
Apart from these there are isolated temples like Dharmaraj Temple and the Sitala Temple.
Kalachand Temple complex
Kalachand
Complex is the most elaborate of the temple
complex in Pathra. It lies on the left hand side of the road for visitors
arriving from Midnapore town. The Kalachand
Temple, a rectangular flat roofed structure with decorative
pillars supporting five arched gateways lies next to the road. Behind
it lies three aat chal (8 sloped roof) Shiva mandir and a temple built in
pancha ratna (five pinnacle) style. Beyond that lies one rectangular roofless
laterite structure fronted by a verandah locally known as Durga Mandapa. Next
to the Durga Mandap lies the dilapidated Zamindar’s mansion, the staircase of
which still exists and provide access to the roof.
Further down the road
stands two temples built in aat chala and panch ratna style. The temples of
Kalchand complex only have traces of terracotta ornamentation with no intricate
details. Apart from these the complex also houses several ruined structures
completely covered with vegetation.
Opposite the Kalachand
Temple complex stands the Nabaratna
Temple Complex, centred round the towering naba ratna (nine
pinnacle) temple. This is the only nine pinnacle temple of Pathra and the
tallest of all the temples in the town. Entrance is on the eastern side through
a triple arched entrance and the front face of the temple is covered with
terracotta ornamentation. The complex also houses four flat roof shiva temples
and a small but decorative tulsi mancha. The stand alone Dhrmaraj Temple lies on
the right hand side of the road and next to the Kansabati River.
Rasmancha Complex
A left turn, beyond the
Kalachand Temple complex, followed by a winding dirt road, past a small unknown
aat chala temple, leads to the Rasmancha
Complex. Built by the Bandopadhyay family, it is also known as
the Bandopadhyay Temple Complex.
The Temple complex of the Bandopadhaya family includes three pancha ratna brick
built Siva Temples, octagonal Rashmancha, the Kacharibari and two other minor
Siva Temples. The three pancha ratna temples have fine terracotta ornamentation
while the rasmancha has its share of stucco ornamentation. The octagonal
rasmancha with its nine pinnacle definitely stands out among the rest.
Sitala Mandir
Back to the main road and
a short distance on the left is the Sitala
Mandir. The temple is said to house the family deity of
Majumdar (Ghosal) and is popularly known as Burimar Than. Built probably in
the first part of the 18th century and follows the deul style of architecture.
It is the only deul style temple of Pathra. The saptaratha sikhara of the
Temple is topped by a round amalaka and Kalasa. Next to the Sital Mandir is a
ruined structure totally covered with vegetation.
Although most of the terracotta panels have been
destroyed or defaced, a handful of them have survived. A statue of
Vishnu-Lokeswara of 9th century AD, an artifice of great archaeological value,
marking clear evidences of a fusion of Hindu and Buddhist tenets, was
discovered during excavation of a tank in 1961. Also discovered was a
partially damaged astadhatu (eight-metal) twin statue of Radha-Krishna.
Besides, two pairs of Radha-Krishna statues were also discovered in a partially
damaged condition from the waters of river Kangsabati.
Amongst the existing relics – there were
innumerable earthen terracotta sculptures on the walls of most of the temples,
most of which had been either stolen or defaced. Still, a few has survived,
such as bird hunting scenes, Siddhi preparing Mahanta, Sree Chaitanya, Lord
Balaram, Dusavatar; incarnations of Matsya, Kurma, Nrisingha, Dasharatha, Ram,
Buddha, Krishna, Yasoda, Krishnalila, Rama-Hanumana-Sita and love scenes
between Krishna and Radha etc.
How
to Reach:
By Train:
Local and express trains are running from Howrah to Midnapore. Distance from
Midnapore to Pathra is 10-15 km. Pathra is easily accessible by car or trekker
from Midnapore via Hatikhola. You need to hire some cab from Midnapore station.
· Auto/Toto:
Readily available from Midnapore town near the railway station or central bus
stand. The trip usually takes around (30 - 40) minutes.
· Shared
Autos: Available from
Amtala bus stop or Khudiram Park in Midnapore.
By
Air: Netaji Subhash Bose Terminal is the nearest airport
By
Road: Midnapore town is the nearest bus
stand. From there either a hired cab or Auto/Toto or shared Auto. While there
is a specific Pathra Bus Stop on the Parulia Road, most visitors
access the village by hiring local autos/totos (approximately ₹350) round trip)
from Midnapore town or by taking shared autos from Amtala bus stop/Khudiram
Park in Midnapore.
Photography and
Parking
There is no
restriction is photography. Drone is not allowed in the Mazumdar Family Temple
complex, but can be used at the Kachari Bari temple complex.
No dedicated Parking.
For the Mazumdar family temple complex, vehicle should be parked on the side of
the road (not an issue), while for the Kachari bari temple complex, the car
should be parked inside the temple complex in the jungle bushes, again no
issues with parking.
Stay options
Midnapore town has few
stay options (West Midnapore). Otherwise Kharagpur is the nearest place for
stay.
Famous festivals:
·
Mahashivaratri: A major festival
celebrated with great zeal at the Shiva temples within the Pathra complex,
including Gangadhar and Jaleshwar temples, attracting pilgrims.
·
Rash Utsav (Raas): Celebrated in the
Rashmancha area of the complex.
·
Durga Puja: Held annually in the dedicated Mandap
at the site.
· Chaitra Mela/Gajan: Major celebrations held at the nearby
famous Tarakeshwar temple, attracting huge crowds